Correct sizing is vital for both comfort and efficiency—before buying a system, make sure a licensed technician performs a load calculation on your home to ensure proper sizing. We recommend a minimum seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER) of 14.00.

There are several ways to improve upstairs cooling, most of which involve hiring a registered technician to diagnose the problem.

• The air distribution system must be sealed, sized and insulated properly. If the ductwork to certain upstairs rooms is not large enough, too little air may be coming in to meet the heat load of the room. A room-by-room load calculation can help determine the exact number of BTUs needed per room.
• Have your ductwork checked. Ducts on your supply system may be disconnected, crushed or crimped, which would prevent air from being distributed effectively throughout the upstairs.
• The return air system may be undersized.
• If your home is more than 20 years old, you may need more attic insulation.
• You can add window coverings such as curtains, blinds and solar screens to block solar heat from coming in.

Lowering your energy usage is directly related to raising the setting on your thermostat. For every degree below the recommended 78° F, your cooling costs can increase to 5–7%. When you leave for work, raise your thermostat to around 81 to 82° and return it to 78° when you get home. Also, replace your air conditioning filters on a monthly basis, and close your curtains and blinds during the day to prevent solar heat from warming up your home.

Yes, installing a programmable thermostat in your apartment will help you save energy. Before purchasing, check with your apartment manager to see if tenants may install them. Also find out the type of heat your units use—electric strip heating, heat pumps or hydronic—which is necessary to find the right programmable thermostat.

We do not recommend turning your air conditioner off completely; instead, set your thermostat to 82° F. 

We don't recommend placing the fan in the "on" position, which will result in increased energy usage and minimal (if any) comfort gain. It's better to open a window and turn on a ceiling fan when weather permits.

Each type of insulation has distinct properties; the best choice depends on your needs and preferences.

Cellulose insulation: Cellulose is essentially newspaper and cardboard that has been shredded. It is organic and porous, which means it does a great job of trapping air. Its insulation properties seem to last longer than other products because it doesn’t settle as quickly. It’s also treated with boric acid, which provides a level of fire retardation and helps repel insects and bugs.

Batt or blown insulation: Loose insulation is good as long as it is applied evenly throughout your attic. Blown insulation reaches cracks and crevices that batt insulation may miss.

Fans do not lower a room’s temperature, they just make the occupants feel cooler because they cause a wind-chill effect. Even though fans cost only a penny per hour to operate, it’s best to turn them off when you leave the room or house.

Most ceiling fans feature a switch that reverses their rotation. In the winter, select the top position (counter-clockwise rotation) to direct the air flow upward. The warm air near the ceiling will then be pushed down the sides of the room into the living zone, making the room feel warmer. In the summer, the switch should be in the down position (clockwise rotation) to push the air downward, causing a wind-chill effect.

Electric furnaces are expensive to operate compared to other heating choices and have a life expectancy of anywhere from 10 to 30 years. A thermostat controls the electric furnace and uses heat strips and an air handling system to supply heat to the home.

In the winter months, it’s best to set your thermostat to 70° F or lower. Each degree above 70° can increase your heating costs by as much as 3–5%.

We recommend heating your home with a natural gas furnace, preferably one with an Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) of 80% or higher. Operating costs for a gas furnace are relatively low and are comparable to an electric heat pump. If the gas furnace is located in a room below the ceiling insulation, be sure to provide proper venting through a ducted opening to the outside.

To find ways to save tailored to your home energy use, please use our online Reliant Energy Checkup Tool. You can also request a Home Energy Checkup, in which one of our energy experts will evaluate your home and provide customized solutions to help you lower your usage.

Please visit the Energy Savings Center and take the Reliant Energy Checkup for energy-saving information tailored to your home.

Lighting accounts for about 20 percent of your home’s total energy usage, so it makes sense to use the most energy-efficient lighting available.

A radiant barrier is a metallic foil material (usually aluminum) designed to block radiant heat transfer across open spaces. These barriers do an excellent job of preventing radiant heat from entering your attic and moving into air conditioned space. Your exact energy savings will vary depending on such factors as the efficiency of your air conditioning system, your current insulation levels and the efficiency of your air distribution system.

All new model freezers are energy efficient, thanks to legislation passed in the early 1990s.

No, a study conducted in Houston by the National Bureau of Standards found that power vents are not a cost-effective investment. The energy required to keep the power vents running outweigh any savings in air conditioning costs. The key to a ventilation system is air flow, and ridge vents, teamed with continuous soffits, are the best way to ventilate an attic. 

Yes, we strongly recommend passive ventilation systems and believe that ridge vents, coupled with continuous soffits, are the best way to ventilate an attic.

Gas water heaters for residential applications typically come in 40, 50, 75 and 100 gallons. As you increase the volume of the gas water heater, you also increase the surface area—leading to increased energy usage. You can sometimes use a smaller water heater if you have low-flow showerheads and faucets.

Be sure to compare the black-and-yellow Energy Guide labels for same-capacity water heaters. And when looking for a contractor, make sure they are bonded, insured and have some level of training from the manufacturer.

Instantaneous water heaters are tankless units that heat the water only as needed at the end source using a high-power electric heating element. These water heaters are not energy efficient and are only appropriate for small applications. 

We do not recommend using an insulation jacket on a gas water heater unless the manufacturer specifies that it is safe to do so, as it could pose a fire hazard. Most of the time, insulation jackets are used on older, inefficient electric heaters; if you have a newer model, it may already be insulated on the inside.

Even though they cost more than single-pane windows, double pane low-E windows will decrease your energy usage while enhancing the comfort of your home. You'll need to contact the permitting jurisdiction in the area (either the city or the county) to find out if double-pane low-E windows are required. They may be required for builders participating in the EPA’s ENERGY STAR program to certify their homes.

Yes, the addition of solar screens can reduce your energy usage and increase the comfort of your home. We recommend targeting the east- and west-facing windows of your home, because this is where most solar heat gain occurs.